The Skincare Ingredient Bible: Understanding What Works and Why
When it comes to skincare, the world of products can feel like a maze of claims, buzzwords, and scientific jargon. But understanding the key active ingredients — and how they actually work — can help you make informed decisions for your skin. Below, we break down six of the most powerful, clinically proven ingredients, their benefits, and how to use them effectively.
1. Retinoids: The Age-Defying Wizards
What they are: Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A, including retinol, retinaldehyde, and prescription-strength tretinoin.
How they work: They speed up cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, and fade pigmentation. This results in smoother, firmer, and more even-toned skin.
Benefits:
Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
Improves skin texture and tone
Helps with acne prevention and treatment
Fades dark spots and pigmentation
How to use:
Start 2–3 nights a week and increase as tolerated
Apply at night only, to clean dry skin
Always follow with moisturiser and wear SPF daily
⚠️ Caution: Retinoids can cause dryness and irritation at first — introduce slowly and avoid mixing with other strong exfoliants.
2. Hyaluronic Acid: The Ultimate Hydrator
What it is: A naturally occurring sugar in our skin that binds up to 1,000 times its weight in water.
How it works: Hyaluronic acid acts like a sponge, drawing water into the skin and keeping it there, resulting in plumper, smoother, and more hydrated skin.
Benefits:
Boosts skin hydration instantly
Plumps fine lines temporarily
Improves overall skin suppleness
Works well with all skin types
How to use:
Best applied to damp skin, then locked in with a moisturiser
Can be used morning and night
Works beautifully after microneedling or skin boosters for enhanced hydration
3. Vitamin C: The Glow
A potent antioxidant (L-ascorbic acid is the gold standard) that protects skin from free radical damage.
How it works: Neutralises environmental stressors, stimulates collagen production, and brightens uneven skin tone.
Benefits:
Brightens and evens skin tone
Reduces signs of sun damage
Protects against pollution and UV-induced aging
Stimulates collagen for firmer skin
How to use:
Apply in the morning before SPF
Store in an opaque, airtight container to prevent oxidation
Works well with ferulic acid for boosted stability and efficacy
4. Niacinamide: The Multitasker
What it is: A form of vitamin B3 with multiple skin benefits.
How it works: Improves the skin barrier, reduces inflammation, balances oil production, and evens skin tone.
Benefits:
Reduces redness and blotchiness
Minimises pore appearance
Strengthens the skin barrier
Calms acne-prone or sensitive skin
How to use:
Can be used morning or night
Plays well with other actives like retinol and vitamin C
Gentle enough for sensitive skin
5. AHAs & BHAs: The Exfoliating Experts
What they are: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (like glycolic and lactic acid) are water-soluble exfoliants, while Beta Hydroxy Acids (like salicylic acid) are oil-soluble.
How they work:
AHAs work on the skin’s surface to dissolve dead cells for smoother, brighter skin.
BHAs work deeper in pores, dissolving excess oil and reducing congestion.
Benefits:
Improves skin texture and radiance
Helps with acne and blackheads
Fades post-acne marks and pigmentation
Stimulates collagen with long-term use
How to use:
Start 1–2 times a week, increasing as tolerated
Always follow with SPF as exfoliation makes skin more sun-sensitive
Avoid using at the same time as strong retinoids
6. Polynucleotides: The Skin Regenerators
What they are: Naturally derived DNA fragments that stimulate repair and regeneration at a cellular level.
How they work: Boost fibroblast activity (collagen and elastin production), improve microcirculation, and promote tissue healing — giving skin a “reset” from within.
Benefits:
Improves elasticity and firmness
Smooths fine lines and wrinkles
Repairs UV damage and oxidative stress
Hydrates and restores radiance
How to use:
Best delivered via in-clinic treatments such as injections or microneedling
Works well alongside skin boosters and other regenerative therapies
Results build over a course of treatments
FAQs: Your Skincare Ingredient Questions Answered
Q: Can I use all of these ingredients together?
A: Many can be layered, but not all at once. For example, retinoids and AHAs/BHAs should not be used together on the same night to avoid irritation.
Q: How long before I see results?
A: Hydrators like hyaluronic acid can give instant effects, while collagen-stimulating ingredients like retinoids and polynucleotides can take 8–12 weeks for visible change.
Q: Do I still need SPF if I use these?
A: Absolutely — SPF is essential daily, especially when using actives like retinoids, vitamin C, or acids.
Q: Are these safe for sensitive skin?
A: Yes, but start slowly and introduce one active ingredient at a time to monitor your skin’s response.
